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Getting lost in the back streets of Seoul isn’t all that dangerous. It seems that any cold exterior people may portray is for protective purposes only, and possibly as a result of the perpetual threat of all out war that looms heavy. For every abrupt citizen you encounter, another is overtly friendly. Few speak English to any level of coherency; so basic functioning can be a challenge.

The war between North and South Korea never officially ended. Tensions remain high, especially in light of North Korea’s oppressive regime and provocative behaviour. Nobody knows what’s going to happen, so exploring the peninsula, the tangible artifacts of history and a potentially disastrous future really exist for all to see. No where is this more true than at the border.

On emerging from your hotel or the underground in Seoul, one is bombarded and overwhelmed by a series of vigorous sensual attacks. The musk of garlic, soy marinated beef and odorous pollution hangs heavy like the dense cloud of brown vaporous smog. You are never more than a few metres away from some foul-smelling restaurant or nauseating outdoor food stall.

The morning I was dreading had come. We were departing Japan. It’s not that I didn’t want to see South Korea; I was just apprehensive about leaving behind a country that I loved, and travelling to one I knew nothing about. Discovering new frontiers though is just as important as enjoying ones you’re fond of. South Korea awaited us, and the prospect was really rather exciting.













































