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On my final day back in Apia, I have some food at the famous Aggie Greys Hotel and wander downtown to a very colourful market where a Reverend filling in as a salesmen tries to make me a convert. The market houses stall upon stall of carefully crafted pottery and souvenirs as well as some fruit, vegetables and old clothes.
My favourite moment in Samoa comes when i’m staying at another Beach Fale on the southern side of Upolu. It’s Saturday, and the penultimate night I leave for America. I, along with a handful of tourists from all over the world – get treated to a traditional Fia Fia dance night under the stars and by no more than candlelight.
The people of Samoa are amongst the most friendly I’ve ever come across. They are bronze in colour and often very large in size and seem to possess a genuine innocence to the outside world. Despite having no modern comforts, no guarantee of food every day and little income, the people here always have a smile.
Journeying around Savaii is an intoxicating experience. For this is not just an island of sun, sand and sea. Actually exploring it is an adventure. There’s only one paved road that runs around the circumference and we hardly ever meet another vehicle - except the odd family run bus that bounces along with its stereo pumped up to maximum.
I’m off again, back in the direction of the airport, only this time further onwards to Mulifanua port, to catch the ferry to Samoa’s western most Island – Savaii. It’s pitch black again, and the same invigorating Pacific breeze blows through the car. The sky is lit up by thousands of stars, more than I’ve ever seen.
